Goodbye Lake Erie

August 17, 2006
Our long anticipated departure for the first leg of our Great Circle Cruise suddenly moved up a day when John Schilling our marina neighbor at Anchor Point called to say our boat Silent Passage was taking on water. We hastened our packing and went straight to the marina, determined the situation was not a showstopper (I won’t bore you with the details) and prepared to sail.

Goodbye Lake Erie, no more constant chart monitoring for your shallow waters and no more hoping the water is high enough to get out of the marina. No more nasty biting flies that resemble a housefly but bite through socks and shirts (we often found ourselves steering with one hand on the wheel while the other wielded a flyswatter). No more slimy May flies that cover the boat in a smelly, squirming carpet of wings and bodies. No more bone jarring choppy water and no more confused seas with winds tearing at our bimini.

The weather determined we would set sail on Thursday and we had a great day of sailing finally anchoring at Westport Marina in LaSalle, Ontario, on the northern tip of fighting island in the Detroit River. We sailed eight hours covering Lake Erie and about 60% of the Detroit River. Ron and Marlene Tann, owners of Westport Marina were gracious and invited us to Customer Appreciation Day on Friday. They take their marina customers out on their 30 ton converted steel fishing boat but we planned to leave early that morning.

The marina was serviceable, restrooms and shower updated and spotless, $1.00 a foot Canadian, cash only, but not a marina I would recommend for a long stay.


Friday, August 18, 2006
Ten hours took us up the rest of the Detroit River into Lake St. Clair and barely into The St. Clair River. I truly enjoyed the time we spent on the Detroit River. The homes were beautiful and some of the scenery lovely, but the smokestacks and the GM building were the most significant for me. GM and later Delphi Automotive provided me with wonderful opportunities. I had a challenging career, a good income and great friends at Harrison Radiator/Delphi Automotive in Lockport, New York, as part of the Materials Management, Production Control Team.

We docked (it slightly resembled a dock) at a marina in Port Lambton called Ecarte Marine on the Chenal Ecarte at the mouth of the St. Clair River. We have a 4’7” draft and barely made it; we couldn’t get to the gas dock. Rest rooms and showers were very clean, supplies available and it’s a port in a storm but otherwise I would not recommend this marina. Cost was reasonable: $25.00 Canadian. Mike had fun looking at a completely restored 40% scaled Bluenose 1929 and we met a lot of nice people (yes, some were even power boaters) who were more than willing to share their knowledge of local waters.


Saturday, August 19, 2006
Up early and on the water for a short 6 ½ hour day struggling against the current in the St. Clair River and north winds in our face. (Was Lake Erie really so bad?) Oh yes, I forgot to mention that during our first hour on Lake St. Clair the air smelled like a cattle feedlot. But it was easy to disregard the odor as we were struggling to put on our raingear and protect our new $900.00 Garmin GPS Map 492 chart plotter from the pouring rain. As we left the marina I asked Mike if he had any running lights on and his retort: No, why? Well, I said, I thought you might have noticed the pea soup fog. OK he said, I’ll put on the lights. The next hour we wove our way in and out of a maze of early Saturday morning fishermen, anchored and happy as can be in the pouring rain and fog. And then there were freighters, lots of freighters. Sharing the shipping lanes with lake freighters has become old hat already. It’s not much different than dealing with semi-trucks on the interstate highways. The freighters are not as troublesome as the large powerboats speeding by and leaving huge wakes; the powerboat wakes have given new meaning to the phrase “rock and roll”.

Just before we reached the Bluewater Bridge connecting Port Huron, USA and Sarnia, Ontario we enjoyed a view of 4 stately tall ships in Port Huron for a showing and a fundraiser. The Bluewater Bridge was not a problem as there is plenty of clearance but the velocity of the currents under the span was startling. We were told a four-mile current is typical but sustained high northerly winds can cause the current to increase even more.

We had reservations at Lake Huron Yachts Limited and were in contact with Rick Burr as we approached. This is a marina I would highly recommend. It’s a small sailboats only marina with a friendly environment. “Going the extra mile” for transients are not a typical occurrence but Rick Burr knows how to welcome weary sailors. He knows Lake Huron intimately and is willing to spend time with the less experienced until they are comfortable with their sail plan. Rides offered, WiFi Internet information provided, restaurant recommendations, the list is endless. The rest room and shower facilities are more than adequate. A sailor on sabbatical Rick and his wife opted for the comforts of a trawler but it’s clear there is
another sailboat in their future.

We decided on a two-day stay at Lake Huron Yachts as the forecast for 25 mile an hour winds and seven-foot waves intimidated us.

We had dinner at a great Italian restaurant at 105 Michigan in Point Edward just a few blocks from the marina. Oilcloth tablecloths, clothe napkins and an owner who talks with each and every patron to determine their dinner selection for the evening (no menus). Everything is created fresh even the pasta. It was a memorable authentic Italian dinner. No need to labor over a dressing selection for your salad. Everyone gets as glass of ice water and a fresh romaine salad with a wedge of tomato dressed with oil and wine vinegar. Louie and Antonietta Mele run Salvatore’s Trattoria & Restaurante. Reservations are not required but it’s a good idea 519-344-2855. There are a lot of nice eating establishments within walking distance of the marina including the Prince Edward Charity Casino where we enjoyed a Sunday morning breakfast after a bike ride.

Mike has been troubled by what he calls a chatter in the engine. He has attempted to resolve this issue numerous times. Today, when Rick stopped by to see if we needed anything Mike turned on the engine and Rick helped him identify the problem. The alternator bracket had severed. This is reminiscent of our breakdown and tow to Erie last year. Rick contacted a local welder who is available tomorrow morning. If all goes well we still plan to leave tomorrow but sailors go with the flow and never plan too far ahead.

Lake Huron Yachts
Phone: 519-542-8125
Waypoint in our slip: N 43°00.086'
W 082°24.708'


Pointers for fellow cruisers:

A. Before you walk ten long blocks to a Laundromat in Canada with a backpack full of laundry make sure you have Canadian quarters. Not much open in Canada on Sunday; no place to get Canadian change and no change machine in the Laundromat.
B. Before you head out to a Casino for brunch call and see if the last time they had a brunch was three years ago. Some of the Guides we purchased for this trip have incorrect and outdated information including waypoints and phone numbers.
C. Bicycles are a necessity for the cruiser and backpacks are handy for schlepping purchases.
D. An extra tarp can be useful when your Bimini leaks.

Tying Up Loose Ends

Augusr 24, 2006

A little over three weeks and we'll be off on our big adventure. Mike has to deliver a boat, take care of tax clients, rent an apartment, make arrangements for his dog, put the farm in a realtor's hands and mow all the lawns. It's what he calls semi-retired.

I'm off to visit family in western NY and do Grandmother duty while Mike is going to deliver our 1975 27' Catalina. I can't believe he sold it.






Now we are down to two boats. Well, I think you can call the item in the yard a boat. The boat was nameless when he acquired it and he wanted to name the boat Carol Ann but I told him no thanks, do not name that puddle jumper after me. He liked that and now Puddle Jumper is the name of the boat.

We have mixed emotions about selling the farm. We wile away many ours by the creek and feel like we have our own state park. We especially enjoy the bicycle path that runs through the property.

Puppy dog is a main concern for Mike. We often see cruisers with dogs but it not something we will ever consider.

Buffalo to Home Port

Tuesday, July 18. 2006
Here we go again......it's 6:30 AM and we are off to Dunkirk. Some of the locals told us it is a fun port . Unfortunately the wind and waves were in our face. We were able to sail only three hours out of the eight and arrived in Dunkirk at 2:30 PM. We docked at Chadwick Bay Marina which gives a discount to USBoat members (very reasonable) . We rode our bikes, checked out the Maritime Museum and had a great dinner.

Tuesday, July 19, 2006
A 6:30 start and we are at Preque Isle State Park Marina in a mere 8 1/2 hours.
We decide to anchor out in the far west end of the bay and Mike proves to be quite adept at securing the anchor. We settle in next to a great old boat, Mike grills a couple of steaks and as the boat gently turns we enjoy a circular view of wonderful sights.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Fairport is a 70 mile trek so we started out at 5:45 AM and were delighted we were able to sail. The sky had been overcast all day and we had our weather gear handy. We did not anticipate the severe thunderstorm with 50 mile an hour winds that came upon us. Forunately Mike had dropped the sails, we had our life jackets on and he was able to keep the bow pointed into the weather. Our Bimini took quite a beating and will require substantial repairs but we we have gained confidence in our boat and Mike's sailing skills. We docked at Geneva State Park once the weather subsided and just missed another storm.

Friday July 21, 2006

The weather looked OK as we headed for Vermillion. Just past Lorraine we sighted a Lake freighter. I can tell you the name: American Fortitude because we had a very close (I would say too close) view of the ship. It's difficult to judge the speed of the freights and the Captain wasn't sure if he should turn and go behind it or pass in front of it. You be the judge.

We anchored at the Vermillion Public Dock this trip and had a great view of all the comings and goings of the locals out for an evening cruise. There are some great old boats at Vermillion.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Only 55 miles to our homeport Anchor Point in Curtice, Ohio. Three to five foot waves and 15 MPH wind with 25 to 30 mile an hour gusts provided rather challanging. At first riding the waves was fun but became tedious after three or four hours. It was a good feeling to be back in our home port. We survived the Buffalo excursion so its looke like we are destined to do The Great Circle

Eight Days at First Buffalo River Marina

Talk about a unique setting........

This ship, USS The Sullivans DDG68 is moored near our dock at the First Buffalo River Marina. It is a memorial to five brothers from Waterloo, Iowa who served together on the USS JUNEAU during World II. The Sullivan brothers: George, 28; Francis, 27; Joseph, 24; Madison, 23; and Albert, 20; lost their lives during the Battle of Guadalcanalon Nov. 13, 1942. They were adamant about serving together in spite of Navy wartime policy separating family members. To prevent a tragedy of this magnitude from happeneing again, Congress passed the Sullivan Law, which would prevent brohers (and hopefully sisters) from serving on the same ship.

Not only is the is the view unique at the Buffalo marina but where else can you awaken to the aroma of hot cooked cereal emanating from the General Mills Plant across the way. The Buffalo skyline includes numerous vacant building with massive grain storage silos. There are some right here on the marina property.

My daughter Jennifer and her sons Max and Jacob joined us for a sail. Husband Brian promises he'll show up next trip. (I think he gets seasick.) It was great to see the boys enjoy the sailing.............and they came without i-pods or gameboys.

Mike's niece Debbie and her husband and four children all joined us for a sail that turned out to be a little too exciting. Several fell victim to seasickness but we enjoyed the visit.

Mike loves feeding ducks and geese and no matter what marina we are in they seem to find him and his stale Ritz crackers. We enjoyed riding our bikes near the Tifft Nature Preserve and around the local marinas. Deer, wild turkey, lots of bunnies and birds greeted us daily. At RCR Yachts we saw our first brick boat. Upon returning the following day for a picture we were disappointed to find it gone.

Mike met with his old buddies from Bishop Duffy High School, Niagara Falls, New York (Class of 1959.) Paul Brynski, Peter MacPherson, Joe Moran, Lenny Bevilaqua, Lee Erickson and Mike met at the Red Coach for lunch and rehashed a few old high school football games. Mike and I visited with Judie and Peter Macpherson at their new summer place at Sherkston Shores. The weather did not cooperate on Monday July 18 so we set out for home at 6:30 AM Tuesday July 18, 2006.