Sailing-The-Great-Loop

Friday, August 25, 2006

Goodbye Lake Erie

August 17, 2006
Our long anticipated departure for the first leg of our Great Circle Cruise suddenly moved up a day when John Schilling our marina neighbor at Anchor Point called to say our boat Silent Passage was taking on water. We hastened our packing and went straight to the marina, determined the situation was not a showstopper (I won’t bore you with the details) and prepared to sail.

Goodbye Lake Erie, no more constant chart monitoring for your shallow waters and no more hoping the water is high enough to get out of the marina. No more nasty biting flies that resemble a housefly but bite through socks and shirts (we often found ourselves steering with one hand on the wheel while the other wielded a flyswatter). No more slimy May flies that cover the boat in a smelly, squirming carpet of wings and bodies. No more bone jarring choppy water and no more confused seas with winds tearing at our bimini.

The weather determined we would set sail on Thursday and we had a great day of sailing finally anchoring at Westport Marina in LaSalle, Ontario, on the northern tip of fighting island in the Detroit River. We sailed eight hours covering Lake Erie and about 60% of the Detroit River. Ron and Marlene Tann, owners of Westport Marina were gracious and invited us to Customer Appreciation Day on Friday. They take their marina customers out on their 30 ton converted steel fishing boat but we planned to leave early that morning.




The marina was serviceable, restrooms and shower updated and spotless, $1.00 a foot Canadian, cash only, but not a marina I would recommend for a long stay.


Friday, August 18, 2006
Ten hours took us up the rest of the Detroit River into Lake St. Clair and barely into The St. Clair River. I truly enjoyed the time we spent on the Detroit River. The homes were beautiful and some of the scenery lovely, but the smokestacks and the GM building were the most significant for me. GM and later Delphi Automotive provided me with wonderful opportunities. I had a challenging career, a good income and great friends at Harrison Radiator/Delphi Automotive in Lockport, New York, as part of the Materials Management, Production Control Team.



We docked (it slightly resembled a dock) at a marina in Port Lambton called Ecarte Marine on the Chenal Ecarte at the mouth of the St. Clair River. We have a 4’7” draft and barely made it; we couldn’t get to the gas dock. Rest rooms and showers were very clean, supplies available and it’s a port in a storm but otherwise I would not recommend this marina. Cost was reasonable: $25.00 Canadian. Mike had fun looking at a completely restored 40% scaled Bluenose 1929 and we met a lot of nice people (yes, some were even power boaters) who were more than willing to share their knowledge of local waters.


Saturday, August 19, 2006
Up early and on the water for a short 6 ½ hour day struggling against the current in the St. Clair River and north winds in our face. (Was Lake Erie really so bad?) Oh yes, I forgot to mention that during our first hour on Lake St. Clair the air smelled like a cattle feedlot. But it was easy to disregard the odor as we were struggling to put on our raingear and protect our new $900.00 Garmin GPS Map 492 chart plotter from the pouring rain. As we left the marina I asked Mike if he had any running lights on and his retort: No, why? Well, I said, I thought you might have noticed the pea soup fog. OK he said, I’ll put on the lights. The next hour we wove our way in and out of a maze of early Saturday morning fishermen, anchored and happy as can be in the pouring rain and fog. And then there were freighters, lots of freighters. Sharing the shipping lanes with lake freighters has become old hat already. It’s not much different than dealing with semi-trucks on the interstate highways. The freighters are not as troublesome as the large powerboats speeding by and leaving huge wakes; the powerboat wakes have given new meaning to the phrase “rock and roll”.



Just before we reached the Bluewater Bridge connecting Port Huron, USA and Sarnia, Ontario we enjoyed a view of 4 stately tall ships in Port Huron for a showing and a fundraiser. The Bluewater Bridge was not a problem as there is plenty of clearance but the velocity of the currents under the span was startling. We were told a four-mile current is typical but sustained high northerly winds can cause the current to increase even more.

We had reservations at Lake Huron Yachts Limited and were in contact with Rick Burr as we approached. This is a marina I would highly recommend. It’s a small sailboats only marina with a friendly environment. “Going the extra mile” for transients are not a typical occurrence but Rick Burr knows how to welcome weary sailors. He knows Lake Huron intimately and is willing to spend time with the less experienced until they are comfortable with their sail plan. Rides offered, WiFi Internet information provided, restaurant recommendations, the list is endless. The rest room and shower facilities are more than adequate. A sailor on sabbatical Rick and his wife opted for the comforts of a trawler but it’s clear there is
another sailboat in their future.



We decided on a two-day stay at Lake Huron Yachts as the forecast for 25 mile an hour winds and seven-foot waves intimidated us.

We had dinner at a great Italian restaurant at 105 Michigan in Point Edward just a few blocks from the marina. Oilcloth tablecloths, clothe napkins and an owner who talks with each and every patron to determine their dinner selection for the evening (no menus). Everything is created fresh even the pasta. It was a memorable authentic Italian dinner. No need to labor over a dressing selection for your salad. Everyone gets as glass of ice water and a fresh romaine salad with a wedge of tomato dressed with oil and wine vinegar. Louie and Antonietta Mele run Salvatore’s Trattoria & Restaurante. Reservations are not required but it’s a good idea 519-344-2855. There are a lot of nice eating establishments within walking distance of the marina including the Prince Edward Charity Casino where we enjoyed a Sunday morning breakfast after a bike ride.

Mike has been troubled by what he calls a chatter in the engine. He has attempted to resolve this issue numerous times. Today, when Rick stopped by to see if we needed anything Mike turned on the engine and Rick helped him identify the problem. The alternator bracket had severed. This is reminiscent of our breakdown and tow to Erie last year. Rick contacted a local welder who is available tomorrow morning. If all goes well we still plan to leave tomorrow but sailors go with the flow and never plan too far ahead.

Lake Huron Yachts
Phone: 519-542-8125
Waypoint in our slip: N 43°00.086'
W 082°24.708'


Pointers for fellow cruisers:

A. Before you walk ten long blocks to a Laundromat in Canada with a backpack full of laundry make sure you have Canadian quarters. Not much open in Canada on Sunday; no place to get Canadian change and no change machine in the Laundromat.
B. Before you head out to a Casino for brunch call and see if the last time they had a brunch was three years ago. Some of the Guides we purchased for this trip have incorrect and outdated information including waypoints and phone numbers.
C. Bicycles are a necessity for the cruiser and backpacks are handy for schlepping purchases.
D. An extra tarp can be useful when your Bimini leaks.













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